Editor’s Note: Sandra Cuza is the author of Passion Fruit, Game of Chance, and The Art of Brazilian Cooking. All recipes listed below originate from her cookbook.

1. Arroz Biro-Biro (Rice Biro-Biro)

This dish was first presented in an elegant São Paulo restaurant where Biro-Biro, a famous and well-liked football player, happened to be dining. Since the dish had the appearance of the sportsman’s hair, it became known as Rice Biro-Biro. It is the perfect accompaniment to just about any simple main dish including grilled fish, fried or roast chicken, lamb chops or barbequed meat. Everyone loves it and any leftovers work well the next day as fried rice.

1 1/2 cups uncooked rice

Margarine or butter

1/2 small onion, chopped

3 scallions, with tops, sliced

2 slices bacon, fried and crumbled

1/4 cup parsley, chopped

2 eggs, fried with barely cooked yolks

1 large potato, julienne and sautéed

Cook the rice according to directions for white rice in this chapter. Sauté the onion in margarine together with the scallions, add the rice, bacon and parsley. Cut the eggs in pieces and add along with the potatoes and salt to taste. Mix and serve.

Serves 4

2. Salada de Tomates e Búfalo com Pesto da Pimenta (Mozzarella and Tomato Salad with Chili Pesto)

Fresh mozzarella – called búfalo – is made from buffalo milk and the largest number of water buffalo can be found on the Ilha de Marajó. In fact, there are more buffalo than humans on this piece of land and a fair number of the animals are wild. Local lore claims that water buffalo arrived on Marajó, located on the Equator at the mouth of the Amazon River, due to a shipwreck in the nineteenth century. As passengers on this unfortunate vessel, the animals presumably swam to shore where they have remained, and multiplied, ever since. At any rate, they have a great deal of space in which to roam, as this is the largest island in the world to be completely surrounded by fresh water.

2 or more chili peppers, minced

6 black olives

2 tbsp. parsley, chopped

2 tbsp. olive oil

Salt to taste

4 tomatoes, sliced

3 large balls of mozzarella, sliced

Watercress

Arugula leaves

Combine all the ingredients except tomatoes, mozzarella, arugula and watercress. On a serving platter, arrange alternate slices of tomatoes and cheese and loop a thread of pesto over all. Surround with watercress or arugula leaves.

Serves 4

3. Marinada de Abobrinha e Pimenta (Marinated Zucchini Salad)

 

Brazilians particularly love the zucchini, possibly due to the influence of Italian immigrants to the south. Once I even found baby zucchini with the flowers still attached in the feira and was able to experiment with one stuffing for the flower and another for the vegetable which was scrumptious but took most of the day and was far too labor intensive to repeat. Oddly enough, the yellow zucchini has never made it to Brazil, nor has the crookneck nor patty-pan, all of which are summer squash and would be perfect in this mild to hot climate. This particular recipe may be successfully expanded to serve any number of guests, either as a first course, as part of a buffet or pot luck. Just remember that it absolutely must marinate for at least two hours.

1 large zucchini

1 clove garlic, crushed or minced

1 tbsp. sugar

1/2 tsp. salt

2 tbsp. white wine vinegar

1 hot chili pepper, minced

1 tbsp. oil

1 large spray of dill

1 tbsp. basil, finely chopped

1 tbsp. toasted sesame seeds

Slice the zucchini 1/8 inch thick (I get better results with less frustration when a slicer is used). Crush or mince the garlic and mix in the sugar, salt and wine vinegar, stirring to dissolve. Combine with the rest of the ingredients except the zucchini and sesame seeds and mix well. Add the zucchini and turn into a container that allows the squash to bathe, at least partially, in the liquid. Marinate in the refrigerator at least 2 hours or overnight, turning over occasionally with a wooden spoon. Arrange on individual plates or on a platter and sprinkle with sesame seeds.

Serves 3

4. Sopa de Banana Com Curry (Curried Banana Soup)

When I have too many ripe or over-ripe bananas and must use them immediately or sooner, this is a welcome alternative to banana bread or cake. It’s easy, quick and everyone loves it. Although the recipe calls for cream, I usually serve this as a first course and substitute whole milk, which makes a lighter soup. As a supper dish accompanied by a light salad, the cream would be more suitable. Although it keeps perfectly in the refrigerator for a day or two, this soup cannot be successfully frozen.

3 tbsp. butter

1 1/2 cup onion, chopped

2 tsp. hot curry powder

2 1/2 quarts chicken broth, preferably home-made

2 lbs. ripe bananas, sliced

1/3 cup lime juice (lemon may be used)

Salt to taste

2 cups light cream

Melt the butter in a large pan and sauté the onions for 5 minutes. Add the curry powder and cook for 30 seconds longer. Add the chicken broth, bananas, lime juice and salt. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, cover with a lid and cook for 15 minutes. Cool to lukewarm, whirl in the blender until smooth, taste for salt and add the cream. Serve very hot with a sprinkling of finely chopped parsley.

Serves 10

5. Moqueca (Brazilian Fish Stew)

A moqueca is a seafood stew and can include any combination of shrimp, fish, squid, clams, scallops and lobster or just fish. This is a basic recipe that can be varied according to your taste and ingredients on hand. Add and subtract as you like – a splash of cachaça, less tomatoes, a green bell pepper, more garlic – it will still be Brazilian and authentic.

1 large onion, sliced

3 tbsp. olive oil

1 tbsp. dendê oil (optional)

3 large cloves garlic, minced

2 bell peppers, any color, sliced

1 or more chili peppers, minced

4 medium tomatoes, peeled and sliced

Salt to taste

1 1/2 cups coconut milk

2 lbs. of seafood

Fresh cilantro, chopped

Sauté the onion in olive oil and, if it is used, dendê oil for a few minutes. Add the garlic, bell peppers, chili peppers, and tomatoes and sauté for a few minutes. Adjust the salt, add the coconut milk and cook over low heat for about 8 minutes or until the bell peppers are soft. Top with the seafood, cover, and cook until the seafood is done. Serve sprinkled with chopped cilantro.

Serves 6

6. Bobo de Camarão (Shrimp Bobo)

This is a classic, traditional Brazilian dish. Originating in the north, the coconut milk, hot peppers, manioc and fresh shrimp show the African influence on the cuisine of the country. If manioc is not locally available in markets selling Latin American foodstuffs, mashed potatoes may be substituted and it will still be delicious although not as authentic. Dendê oil is available through the same markets that offer manioc.

2 lbs. fresh manioc (mandioca), peeled and quartered

Salt to taste

3 tbsp. olive oil

1 onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

3 tomatoes, chopped

1 green pepper, chopped

2 lbs. medium to large shrimp, cleaned

2 tbsp. cilantro, finely chopped

1 cup coconut milk

Salt to taste

1 tsp. dendê oil (optional)

Cook the manioc in a large pot with water to cover until tender. Remove the central cord and put through the blender, adding water as needed to make a purée. Taste for salt and reserve.

Sauté the onion and garlic in olive oil; when translucent add the tomatoes and green pepper and cook for about 5 minutes. Add the shrimp and cilantro, cook over low heat until the shrimp are done. Add the coconut milk and dendê if using, mix well and taste for salt. Stir in the mandioca and serve immediately with white rice.

Serves 6

7. Frango Xinxim (Chicken and Shrimp Stew)

Chicken Xinxim exists in dozens of variations, and it is very forgiving. Add or subtract ingredients if you like; it will still have authentic Brazilian flavor. Dendê (palm oil) can be found in some specialty shops (see SOURCES), but can be omitted altogether if necessary. In the northern state of Bahia, this oil is used exclusively but it is very high in cholesterol; when I use it, which is rarely, I add only a spoonful or two for flavor. Dried shrimp can be found in Asian shops and lend a distinctive taste that cannot otherwise be duplicated.

1 medium chicken, cut into serving pieces

Salt and pepper

Juice of 2 limes

l lb. shrimp, peeled

2 tbsp. vegetable oil

2 tbsp. olive oil

1 onion, chopped

2 cloves, garlic, minced

2 tbsp. roasted peanuts

2 tbsp. roasted cashews

1/2 cup dried shrimp, rinsed

2 tomatoes, peeled and chopped

1 hot chili pepper, minced

1 cup chicken stock, preferably home-made

1 tbsp. dendê oil, light

1/2 cup fresh cilantro, chopped

1/2 cup unsweetened coconut milk

Salt to taste

Season the chicken with salt and pepper and marinate in the juice of one lime for half an hour. Heat 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil in a large skillet and sauté the shrimp until pink. Remove and reserve. Add olive oil to the same pan and sauté the chicken in batches, browning well and adding more oil if needed. Remove and, in the same pan, sauté the onions and garlic until translucent. Grind the roasted peanuts, cashews, dried shrimp and tomatoes together and add to the onion mixture. Return the chicken to the pan, add the chicken stock and minced chili pepper, cover and cook for about 40 minutes or until the chicken is done, stirring occasionally.

When done, add the shrimp along with the dendê and cilantro and simmer for 10 minutes. Pour in the coconut milk and the juice of the remaining lime. Taste for salt. Serve with white rice.

Serves 4

8. Capote com Arroz (Guinea Fowl with Rice)

I suspect, although I don’t really know, that this is a recipe from the days when guinea fowl were more plentiful than chickens. That isn’t the case any longer and, although the recipe has retained its original name, I found it superb when made with chicken thighs and legs. Turmeric and saffron come from India and were brought to Brazil by the Portuguese. Because saffron was so much more expensive and harder to obtain than turmeric, the latter spice gradually gained importance in the kitchen.

1 guinea fowl or 8 chicken thighs

4 cloves of garlic

1/2 tsp. salt

1 tsp. vinegar

1/2 tsp. cumin powder

2 tsp. turmeric

3 tbsp. vegetable oil

1 large onion, chopped

3 tomatoes, seeded and chopped

1 cup rice

4 cups chicken broth

More salt to taste

1 small, hot pepper, finely minced

1/2 cup cilantro leaves, chopped

If using a guinea fowl, cut it in pieces; season either the guinea fowl or the chicken with garlic, salt, vinegar, cumin and turmeric. Heat the oil and brown the chicken until all liquid evaporates. Add onion and tomatoes and cook over a low flame, adding hot water as needed so the mixture doesn’t dry out or burn. When the chicken tests done, add the rice, the chicken broth and more salt if needed and simmer until the rice is al dente – about 20 minutes. To serve, turn the rice onto a platter, surround with chicken and sprinkle with hot pepper and chopped cilantro.

Serves 6

9. Quindim

This super rich dessert with a Bantu name is one of the culinary trademarks of Brazil. It is more than likely that the dish was created in the 17^th century by African slaves in the Brazilian Northeast where there was an abundance of both coconuts and sugarcane, to please their Portuguese masters who loved desserts with lots of eggs. Quindim may be baked in individual portions using muffin tins, custard cups or ceramic molds, or as a pie in a mold with a hole in the center. In the latter case, it is called a Quindão. Innumerable variations of this recipe exist; this particular version was provided by Lenina Pomeranz.

13 egg yolks

1 1/2 cups sugar

3 tbsp butter, melted

2 1/4 cups grated unsweetened coconut

1 tsp vanilla extract

Butter for coating the molds

Beat the egg yolks with the sugar and butter; add the coconut and vanilla and beat again. Butter the molds you have chosen, sprinkle the bottom and sides with sugar, pour in the batter and lower the molds into a larger pan of hot water. Bake at 350 degrees F. for 40−60 minutes or until firm, a toothpick comes out clean when inserted in the center and the surface golden. The cooking time will depend on the mold you have selected. Cool to lukewarm and unmold; they will stick if you try to do this when they are cold. If you have used a muffin pan, run a sharp knife around the edge of only one quindim, turn the pan over and, holding your hand under the cup, unmold. Repeat the process. Do not try to unmold all of them together as some are likely to slip and land on one side. Chill.

Serves 10−12

10. Torta de Ricotta (Ricotta Pie)

This recipe was given to me by my good friend, the artist Jean Smith, who lived and worked in São Paulo for over 50 years. She had ricotta delivered directly from a small dairy farm that specialized in making cheese and one day when he brought her order, the farmer gave Jean this recipe, a long-time favorite of his family.

1 lb. fresh ricotta

1 can sweetened condensed milk

3 tbsp. cornstarch

Grated lemon peel

4 eggs, separated

Beat everything but the egg whites in the blender until smooth. Beat the egg whites stiff and fold into the ricotta mixture. Pour into a round, 10 inch form (not a pie plate) that has been greased and floured. Bake at 325 degrees F. for approximately one hour.

Serves 8

11. Morango com Chantilly (Strawberries with Whipped Cream)

This is another traditional dish with many variations, some of them quite elaborate. This one is simple but impressive, with just three layered components. Although the recipe for no-fail meringues is given here, you could also use purchased meringues.

2 tbsp. sugar for each egg white used*

Fresh strawberries

1 cup heavy cream for every 10 oz. of strawberries.

Beat the egg whites really stiff; beat in half the sugar and beat again. Fold in the remaining sugar. Cover the baking pan with parchment paper and drop the egg whites in 3 inch rounds. Bake at 240 degrees F. for 1 1/2 hours. Cool.

Cut large strawberries in quarters and smaller ones in half. Just before serving, whip the cream and layer the meringues, strawberries and whipped cream on individual serving plates in the following order:

1. Meringue
2. Whipped Cream
3. Strawberries
4. Whipped cream
5. Meringue
6. Whipped cream
7. Strawberries

If you prefer, the meringues may be broken into pieces or even crumbled before layering. Serve immediately or the meringue will absorb moisture and melt.

* NOTE: If you are storing egg whites, 1/3 cup equals 2 large whites.

12. Sorvete de Abacaxi (Pineapple Ice Cream)

This is another recipe where the shell may be used as a serving dish, although I usually prepare the ice cream and keep it shell-less in the freezer. The directions here are for presenting it in the shell, probably a special occasion or a summer dinner party.

1 ripe, medium size pineapple

2 quarts vanilla ice cream

Cut the pineapple in half lengthwise and save both halves, including the fronds. With a metal spoon and a small knife, remove the pineapple pulp and chop roughly. Cook it in a saucepan over a low fire for about 30 minutes or until it is golden, stirring frequently so that it doesn’t stick to the pan. Take it off the fire and cool it completely. When it is absolutely cold, soften the ice cream, quickly mix with the cooked pineapple and stuff the reserved shells. Freeze until serving time.

Serves 8

13. Brigadeiros

The mere thought of a brigadeiro will bring a sparkle to the eyes and a smile to the lips of Brazilians to whom this sweet is a comfort food from earliest memory. Mandatory at children’s birthday parties, these also appear at adult events of all kinds and, of course, at home.

1 can sweetened condensed milk

4 tbsp. powdered, unsweetened cocoa

1 tbsp. butter

Crystallized sugar or chocolate sprinkles

Mix the ingredients thoroughly over a medium fire, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. When the bottom of the pan appears with each scrape of the spoon, turn off the fire. With oiled hands, roll the mass into small balls and roll them in crystallized sugar or chocolate sprinkles.

14. Caipirinha

This is the national drink and is made with lime, sugar, sugar cane cachaça, and ice. Because it is individually mixed, unlike sangrias that are made and served in a pitcher, each person can vary the ingredients according to their taste. It is not uncommon to substitute vodka for cachaça and in this case the drink becomes a caipiroshka. Derivan Ferreira de Souza is one of the most respected bartenders in Brazil. Two times president of the Brazilian Barmen’s Association, he represented the International Bartenders Association in Latin America for 6 years and has standardized the caipirinha as follows.

1 medium lime, cut into small cubes without the core

2 tbsp. bar sugar

1 1/2 oz. cachaça

Ice cubes or crushed ice

Place the lime pieces and sugar in the bottom of an old-fashioned glass and crush with a pestle. Add the cachaça, and crushed ice or cubes and stir.

Serves 1

15. Musse de Maracujá (Passion Fruit Mousse)

There are endless variations of this classic dessert and, at one point, I felt that I had tested most of them. Some are delicious but use raw eggs, both the whites and heavy cream beaten stiff and then combined with the other ingredients. The one I chose is very traditional and has only four components – gelatin, condensed milk, fresh passion fruit juice, and heavy cream. Don’t be afraid to experiment with this recipe – it’s not like baking a cake where every measurement should be exact. You may prefer more juice, less cream, maybe less or more gelatin or perhaps just as it is here but it is virtually impossible to ruin it.

1 envelope gelatin

Cold water

1 can (14 oz.) sweetened condensed milk

Passion fruit juice

1 cup heavy cream

In a small cup, soak the gelatin in cold water for a few minutes, then dissolve over hot water. Prepare the juice, first blending briefly and then straining out the seeds; you will need the same amount of juice as condensed milk. Beat both of these together and gradually add the cream and gelatin. Continue beating to incorporate all the ingredients and then pour into a glass serving dish or individual serving dishes.

Serves 6